This entry is part of my continuing build of the half-scale replica of Date Masamune's Samurai armor. If this is your first time reading my blog, welcome. You can catch up on my project with my build diary on the Model Space Forum and here in my blog.
If you've been following my build. Thank you. In this post, I'll be talking about my decision making process to make the kusazuri (waist armor) removable, a design carry over from my own full scale armor designs.
If you've been following my build. Thank you. In this post, I'll be talking about my decision making process to make the kusazuri (waist armor) removable, a design carry over from my own full scale armor designs.
As part of making my Samurai armor designs contemporary, certain sections are more modular than their traditional counterparts.
The do (torso armor) for example, is separated into several sections for more range of movement and to allow it to fit on people of different sizes. For better mobility, not all of the do plates need to be worn.
Also, the kusazuri is not suspended from the do allowing for more versatility. Part or all of the kusazuri could be worn independent of the midsection plates. This allows it the same tactical advantages as the do. It also allows it to be packed separately for transport.
The do (torso armor) for example, is separated into several sections for more range of movement and to allow it to fit on people of different sizes. For better mobility, not all of the do plates need to be worn.
Also, the kusazuri is not suspended from the do allowing for more versatility. Part or all of the kusazuri could be worn independent of the midsection plates. This allows it the same tactical advantages as the do. It also allows it to be packed separately for transport.
Making the kusazuri detachable on the ½ scale replica is my biggest modification to the build so far. I decided to develop a toggle and fastener arrangement similar to the one's used to attach the kote (armored sleeves) pictured left.
There were some spare toggles and fasteners from the replacement stages. But, I didn't have enough of the toggles and fasteners for all the kusazuri sets. I had 4 sets and I needed 33.
I began by searching the internet for similar parts. No luck. On to plan B: making toggles and fasteners.
To create the toggles, I toyed with a few ideas. One idea was to use wood or plastic to replicate the original toggles provided with the model (pictured below). Another idea was to use small two hole buttons. If I used buttons, I would have to reshape them so they wouldn't look like buttons.
There were some spare toggles and fasteners from the replacement stages. But, I didn't have enough of the toggles and fasteners for all the kusazuri sets. I had 4 sets and I needed 33.
I began by searching the internet for similar parts. No luck. On to plan B: making toggles and fasteners.
To create the toggles, I toyed with a few ideas. One idea was to use wood or plastic to replicate the original toggles provided with the model (pictured below). Another idea was to use small two hole buttons. If I used buttons, I would have to reshape them so they wouldn't look like buttons.
The original toggle and fastener provided with the replica set. I also had to decide where to place the connection point between the do and kusazuri. Should it be closer to the do, closer to the kusazuri or somewhere in between?
My first thought was to build the connection point half way between the do and kusazuri making it easier to use the toggle and fastener but it would make them very visible.
If I went this route, aesthetics of the toggles and fasteners would be important. The hardware would have to look like they belonged on a 16th century, Sendai style armor design.
My first thought was to build the connection point half way between the do and kusazuri making it easier to use the toggle and fastener but it would make them very visible.
If I went this route, aesthetics of the toggles and fasteners would be important. The hardware would have to look like they belonged on a 16th century, Sendai style armor design.
Kiko - small hexagonal armor plates on the knee area of the suneate (shin guard). At one point, I thought of sanding the buttons into the “football” shape of the original toggles. But, I imagined sanding several very small pieces was going to be slow and tedious.
In the picture above, you can get a sense of the scale of the toggles and fasteners needed.
I also thought of hexagonal shaped toggles. The hexagonal shape would mimic the shape of the kiko – the small armored plates that are sometimes stitched into the knee guard (pictured left) or collar.
In the end, I decided I wanted to keep the appearance as close to the original design as possible and hide the toggle and closure system behind the top of the kusasuri plates.
I settled on using rounded toothpick sections painted black. Simple and easy to work with.
In the picture above, you can get a sense of the scale of the toggles and fasteners needed.
I also thought of hexagonal shaped toggles. The hexagonal shape would mimic the shape of the kiko – the small armored plates that are sometimes stitched into the knee guard (pictured left) or collar.
In the end, I decided I wanted to keep the appearance as close to the original design as possible and hide the toggle and closure system behind the top of the kusasuri plates.
I settled on using rounded toothpick sections painted black. Simple and easy to work with.
Testing clear and black wire insulation as fasteners. To make the fasteners, I started with medical oxygen tubing. The size was perfect but I only had individual hoses. To create the correct two hole cross section I needed to attach two hoses together.
This proved difficult and I wasn't sold on the clear appearance.
I then moved on to dual core wire insulation. It had the two hole cross section needed and it was available in a variety of sizes and colors.
The wire insulation worked out. I ended up cutting them to size with a modified pill cutter.
This proved difficult and I wasn't sold on the clear appearance.
I then moved on to dual core wire insulation. It had the two hole cross section needed and it was available in a variety of sizes and colors.
The wire insulation worked out. I ended up cutting them to size with a modified pill cutter.
Pictured left, are the finished detachable kusazuri sets. If you'd like more details on the construction of the toggles and fasteners, please visit my build diary.
I would love to hear any thoughts you have about the removable kusazuri or any ideas on how you would have done this in the comments below.
I would love to hear any thoughts you have about the removable kusazuri or any ideas on how you would have done this in the comments below.
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